Dave's Hot Chicken's first NM location brings the heat

There’s nothing quite like childhood and devouring a cup of mac and cheese.

That nostalgic reminder was one of many takeaways from my recent visit to New Mexico’s first Dave’s Hot Chicken restaurant, which officially opened to the public Oct. 10.

Before the public debut, the Nashville-style chicken restaurant first previewed its food to media and friends and family of employees two days earlier.

It was a packed house, with every seat inside and outside the restaurant filled and lines of people flowing out the door into the parking lot.

Deryl Pangelinan — COO of Dave’s Hot Chicken’s first and largest franchise group, DHC Licensing — said the event received a “busier-than-normal” turnout for a typical friends and family opening event. The franchise group has opened more than 20 locations so far.

“This day is where it really beefs up the excitement for us,” Pangelinan said at the event. “This is it. When you see the life of the community right in front of you, this is what it’s all about.”

Those in attendance included Toni Kersting, a friend of an employee at the restaurant, and her 5-year-old son Nolan Kersting, who gave the mac and cheese his stamp of approval.

The chicken itself was equally thrilling for Kersting, who ordered a Reaper chicken sandwich. The Reaper is the restaurant’s hottest spice level, deriving its heat from Carolina Reaper peppers, one of the world’s hottest. Customers must sign a waiver to order this heat level.

“It’s pretty spicy,” Toni Kersting said. “I think it’s delicious. I’m really impressed.”

With New Mexico known for its spicy chile, I asked Pangelinan how Dave’s heat compares and if he thought New Mexicans could handle the Reaper.

“I think a lot of people from Albuquerque can handle it,” Pangelinan said. “But I don’t recommend it on your first try. I recommend working your way up.”

Customers are given the option to try two different spice levels, of which there are seven, including No Spice, Lite Mild, Mild, Medium, Hot, Extra Hot and Reaper.

Pangelinan recommended heat lovers start somewhere in the middle, so that’s exactly what I did.

My order came with two chicken tenders, two slices of white bread, pickles, Dave’s sauce, a side of fries and an additional side of mac and cheese. Meals at the preview event were free for all, but the typical cost of an order at Dave’s Hot Chicken ranges from $15 to $17, Pangelinan said.

I ordered one tender with a Medium heat level and the second with a Hot heat level; there was a stark difference between the two.

One offered a spicy but comfortable heat that allowed my taste buds to fully enjoy the flavor of the tender, which offered plenty of juicy white meat and very little, if any, fat (much to my satisfaction), as well as a savory breading with a just hint of sugary sweetness.

The other offered a surprising level of heat that no amount of Sprite, water, bread, fries or panting could relieve — this coming from someone who pretty regularly indulges in every hot chip you could imagine and prides herself on living by the concept of, “The hotter the chile, the better.”

Don’t get me wrong, the second, spicier tender was still delicious and fully consumed — but it could only be done at a ratio of one small bite per five bites of the other, less spicy options in the meal.

As for those other options, the mac and cheese was saucy and yummy; the pickles were thick and juicy; and the wavy-cut fries were covered in tasty seasoning. My only wish was that the fries were a little crispier.

Otherwise, I can say my first introduction to Dave’s Hot Chicken truly did hit the spot.

It filled a hole in the fast foodie portion of my heart that was left there by KFC, when it removed the Nashville Hot Tenders meal from its menu years ago.

I vividly remember that meal being my first exposure to Nashville-style chicken and being amazed at how much I loved the sugary breading. I remembered thinking, “Wow, I never would have thought sugar and chicken go well together.” But there was just something about that spice-infused sugary substance that made me fall in love and opened up a whole new world of chicken cuisine.

I was also impressed with the transformation of the Dave’s Hot Chicken space, which used to be a Panda Express. Now, it’s a vibrant space with colorful murals bursting off every wall.

Every Dave’s Hot Chicken location features art unique to and reflecting the surrounding community. New Mexico’s Dave’s Hot Chicken art features references to the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta and the iconic television show “Breaking Bad.”

It’s apparent through the opening of Dave’s Hot Chicken and several other chicken chains in the last few years that Albuquerque is becoming a hot spot for big chicken.

I’ve heard many complain that the influx of chicken chains is overwhelming Albuquerque’s food scene, and not for the better. I respect that, especially when I’m sure there are plenty of good local places to try. However, as a picky eater and chicken lover myself, I appreciate the options and think Dave’s Hot Chicken adds something a little different from the rest.

For those waiting a couple of months for the buzz to die down before visiting, I don’t blame you. It’s a tight squeeze in the restaurant when packed. But trust me, it’s worth circling back for eventually.

Dave's Hot Chicken's first NM location brings the heat