Fan Tang is nostalgic and still delicious

The first time I ate at Fan Tang in Nob Hill was a decade ago, but it took me until last Sunday to sit down for a meal at the Northeast Heights location.

Although the new spot on Montgomery Boulevard opened its doors last summer and is only a few minutes from my home, I always order takeout at the counter. Based on the number of delivery drivers I’ve seen come through the door, takeout is a popular choice there.

My boyfriend and I over-ordered — with the excuse that we wanted to ensure a well-rounded dining experience. For just over $50, plus tip, we purchased Tofu Lettuce Wraps ($9.49), Pork Buns ($8.99), a massive plate of Hong Kong Noodles ($11.49), the restaurant’s signature Coffee Chicken ($13.79, plus $0.50 for brown rice) and a pot of oolong tea ($4.25).

Normally, my order at Fan Tang is a cliche. I am obsessed with the orange peel chicken — a medium heat and very sweet glazed chicken dish, served with orange peels, Sichuan peppers and rice. It’s an upscale version of the candy-like orange chicken you can buy at fast food chain Panda Express. But, since we were trying sit down, we also tried new menu items.

The food came promptly and hot. The Pork Buns were first, and there’s nothing bad to say about them, but also nothing dazzling about the trio of buns. The lettuce wraps on the other hand were a shock of tofu tossed with water chestnuts and served in lettuce bowls with a spicy dip.

The tofu was crisped at the corners, a delightful match for the cool lettuce. Before we could even wrap our minds and mouths around more than one lettuce wrap, our entrees were delivered.

The chicken was good and the veggies well cooked, but, as you would want, noodles were the star of the show for the Hong Kong Noodles. Wide and thin, the noodles seemed endless. By the end of the meal, it looked like we had actually eaten no noodles at all.

The Coffee Chicken is flouted as the restaurant’s signature dish for a reason. The chicken is rubbed with coffee grounds, then cooked with a smoky and sweet sauce. The chicken is served with green beans, a cold noodle salad and your choice of rice — fried, brown or white. Again, the portions are generous. The chicken is smoky and delectable, and perhaps my new go-to order.

Maybe it was because we dined on a Sunday night, but the number of diners eating-in was slim, a stark contrast with the always-bustling Nob Hill spot. Next to us, an old man was reading his book with dinner, while the group of four behind us toasted with sake.

The vibes were good. The restaurant has a counter facing a corner window, and a dining room with tables and booths. The sound of dishwashing and music playing on the overhead speakers provided some background noise.

The first time I ate at Fan Tang at 20-ish years old, the Chinese restaurant seemed impossibly cool. The wave-shaped lights, the oversized booths and tiny tables, the floor to ceiling windows looking out on Central Avenue. That I could buy a whole pot of tea or a giant plate of noodles.

It was a short walk from the University of New Mexico past Buffalo Exchange, Guild Cinema and Astro-Zombies. I was in my second year of college, and most of the things I did for fun felt like they came out of a coming-of-age movie: thrifting with new friends, reading poems by the Duck Pond, studying for exams at Satellite Coffee on Central Avenue, and dining with classmates.

A decade older, the Montgomery location doesn’t feel as cool. It has no patio and is not located in such a walkable area. But I am also less cool than 10 years ago, and the food is still delicious.

Fan Tang is nostalgic and still delicious