Moving on up: Tula's Kitchen hitting its stride with classed-up American diner standards, Mediterranean entrees

It all started with a pizza oven.

Jon Patten and Bill Scott arrived in Albuquerque from Michigan in 1978 with plans to open a Greek restaurant. They set up shop in the former home of a pizzeria, and the establishment’s previous owner gave them a crash course in pizza making while they were waiting for their restaurant equipment to arrive.

Dion’s was born, and the rest is history.

Over the years, the franchise expanded to more than 25 locations in three states. Generations of locals have filled up on its big, doughy slices.

Now, some 45 years after opening, Dion’s founders have returned to their roots with a spinoff called Tula’s Kitchen, inspired by and named for Jon Patten’s great-aunt. The restaurant opened last October in La Cueva Town Center at Paseo del Norte and Wyoming Boulevard. Dion’s is next door.

The building that houses Tula’s used to be an IHOP, but after a comprehensive and impressive makeover, little evidence of this former incarnation remains. The exterior features black window frames and awnings against white walls. Inside, wooden boards line the ceilings over walls of white-painted brick. My friend likened the decor to the style of Chip and Joanna Gaines, the fixer-uppers of HGTV fame whose style has been described as “modern farmhouse.”

In the early days, customers ordered at a counter just inside the entrance, but now the restaurant has gone to a more traditional sit-down model. We arrived in the midst of a busy lunch hour and were seated at a high table by the bar. The dining room lined with mustard yellow banquettes was full of patrons comprising a wide range of ages.

The menu offers a mix of Mediterranean dishes and classed-up versions of American diner standards. Alongside modestly-priced soups, salads and sandwiches are a few entrees in the $20 range.

Many of the dishes are shareable, like a version of a charcuterie board called the Mediterranean Nosh ($13.25) built around a bowl of earthy, zesty hummus that retained some of the graininess of the chickpeas. It was fun to mix and match the various items: salty, spicy olives with blocks of smoky white cheese, Marcona almonds with a very sweet fig compote, and marinated artichokes, tender and snapping with vinegar, and crostini. The hummus, dusted with paprika and topped with a drizzle of olive oil and flakes of feta cheese, acted as a paste to bind it all together.

Elevated versions of American diner food include a Crafted Grilled Cheese ($9.50) made with a mix of three cheeses on sourdough, and Tomato Bisque ($5) served in a deep bowl on a wooden board. Rivers of cream running through the thick bisque tempered the acid of the tomato, and the subdued salt level let the flavor of the tomatoes shine. The big, blockish croutons in the bowl quickly softened to tasty sponges that soaked up the bisque.

You could have a pretty filling meal between the bisque and a similarly generous side of Mac & Cheese ($5), a solid version made with pasta shells cooked al dente in a thick, creamy sauce.

If there is a star on the menu, it might be the crispy chicken that turns up in several dishes. My friend’s Crispy Chicken Sandwich ($11.50) came with two fat fingers of chicken between halves of a brioche bun. The fine-grained coating of Italian-seasoned breadcrumbs was dark from the fryer but not greasy, and it stayed adhered to the juicy chicken. It’s a terrific sandwich that matches well with a side of Tots, crisp on the outside and fluffy in the middle. The chipotle ranch dressing served on the side brought a charge of heat to both the sandwich and the tots.

The Tula’s Favorites section of the menu consists of more traditional entrees served with a vegetable and a starch.

One of the recent additions to the menu — a onetime special that was made permanent by popular demand, according to our server — is the Airline Chicken ($18.50). There are various stories about the origin of the dish’s name. One suggests that the chicken’s raised wing vaguely resembles an airplane in flight. Tula’s version arrived in a shallow bowl the size of a satellite dish. It looked like a meager portion at first glance, but the underside of the bird had lots of mostly white meat on it. It was served over asparagus and mashed potatoes in a pool of savory gravy. Very satisfying comfort food, even if some of the asparagus was overcooked.

The four desserts range in price from $4.50 to $9.50 for a shareable portion of Peach Crepes. Though not described on the menu as shareable, the Lemon Ice Box Pie ($8.50) might as well be. A big disc of dense graham cracker crust held a thick layer of frozen lemon custard covered with whipped cream. The intense lemon flavor made for a refreshing and palate-cleansing end to the meal. It went well with a cup of coffee ($3) that had the rich, slightly burnt taste of diner brew.

The drinks menu features a Spicy Mango Margarita ($10.50) and other variations on classic cocktails. Mountain Water ($5.25), the lone mocktail, showcases the skill level behind the bar. A mix of lavender syrup, muddled cucumber and lemon juice topped with Topo Chico, it was sharp, effervescent and a little bit floral.

Our server was friendly and efficient. Gluten-free items are not marked on the menu, but there is a list available at the front counter.

After almost a year in business, Tula’s has hit its stride. Its bright décor, focused menu and ability to adapt to customer wants have led it to be popular enough that a second location is reportedly in the works at the former home of Nick and Jimmy’s on the I-25 corridor. Who knows? We may be witnessing another franchise in the making.