The password is ...: Vernon's Speakeasy remains a culinary experience

The restaurant doorman — hair slicked back, gray pinstriped suit — appears to be in no mood for pleasantries. In a small foyer off the entrance, he goes over the rules of the establishment, punctuating each point with a vaguely threatening jab of a baseball bat.

Satisfied that we got the message, he opens a hidden door in the bookcase and ushers us into what must be the darkest dining room in town. The black-painted walls and black fabric lining the ceiling soak up all the available light. We find our seats, narrowly avoiding the stage where a piano player flits through standards like “All of Me” and “Ain’t Misbehavin.’ ”

If it’s not the welcome one is accustomed to, that’s the point. The doorman is an actor, and the establishment he represents is Vernon’s Speakeasy, an homage to Prohibition-era Chicago, when secret passwords were required for admission to the city’s gangster-run bars and restaurants.

The concept has proven to be popular. Vernon’s has expanded steadily since its 2007 opening at the Village Shops at Los Ranchos, a handsome shopping center on Fourth Street, south of Paseo del Norte. It now has several dining areas, a bustling bar and a private function room. According to our server, an additional expansion of the dining area is in the works.

Reservations are easy to make online, although slots fill up quickly for the weekend. The day of your meal, you’ll receive a text with a link to instructions about dress code and behavior. Once you acknowledge receipt of that text, you get a password that gains you admittance to the dining room.

We had scooped up the last dinner reservation available for Saturday. It was just after 5 p.m. and the dining room was drowsy aside from a few guys at the bar and a large wedding party filing past on the way to the private space in the back. Within an hour, things started to come to life as the dining room filled up, and the piano player took the stage.

Vernon’s has a vibrant cocktail scene with a creative team of mixologists who frequently post photos and videos of their creations on social media. While the steakhouse menu lends itself to martinis and old fashioneds, I settled on The Green Gibson ($15), a New Mexico twist on the classic made with vermouth and green chile-infused vodka. The clear, viscous drink was served chilled in a martini glass with a cocktail onion and twist of lemon on a toothpick. It was dry and a little savory with a green chile finish.

The extensive wine list has plenty of affordable options alongside a few once-in-a-lifetime bottles.

The password is ...: Vernon's Speakeasy remains a culinary experience

Meal service began with a basket of Italian bread and a saucer of seasoned olive oil. The menu is accessible via a QR code on the table. Prices occupy rarefied air, especially for Albuquerque. That night, a Wagyu steak special was going for more than $200, and a steak-and-lobster combo for two checked in at more than $300.

We started off with a bowl of Lobster Bisque ($13), its blazing orange color augmented with a dusting of paprika, and a Wedge Salad ($12). The bisque featured plenty of plump pieces of lobster in a rich, briny broth that was a little gritty. The salad was flawless, its creamy blue cheese dressing adding a sour punch to the crunchy iceberg lettuce and bacon bits.

The menu centers around an assortment of steaks at eye-popping prices. The least expensive option is a Boneless Ribeye ($48) served with a starch and vegetable. One of the servers brought it out and had me cut into it to check the level of doneness — something hardly ever done in these parts. It was medium-rare, as ordered.

The steak, impressive in breadth if not depth, was tender and bursting with salty juice. A side of truffle mashed potatoes, whipped and squeezed through a piping bag into a pile of waves and ribbons, was terrific: silky, buttery, a bit earthy. The vegetable was caulini, a member of the cauliflower family that looks like a broccolini drained of its color. It was very good, a little sweeter than cauliflower and cooked perfectly al dente, although it was a bit underheated by the time it got to the table.

Vernon’s has a varied selection of non-steak entrees. Seafood options include Salmon, Shrimp Scampi and the Catch of the Day: on this day, Halibut over risotto ($65). There is also a Bone-in Pork Chop, Lamb Rack Chops and Beef Short Rib, along with a vegetarian/vegan option that varies based on available ingredients and the chef’s inspiration.

Tequila Honey Glazed Chicken ($35) with crispy fingerling potatoes and caulini was solid if unspectacular. The moist chicken was served cut into pieces under a slightly sweet glaze that did not register strongly. The potatoes and caulini were, again, a bit underheated.

The dessert menu was not on the website; instead, the server recited it. Alongside familiar items like Cheesecake, Crème Brûlée and Flourless Chocolate Cake, was a surprise in the form of a gluten-free Peach Galette ($12). A galette is a kind of free-form pie baked on a sheet. Vernon’s version was made with fresh Colorado peaches and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. While the crust may have lacked the flakiness of the gluten-containing version, it provided a suitable backstop for the delicious mix of tart peaches, cinnamon and melting ice cream.

Service was exceptional, as good as I’ve experienced anywhere in town. The dining room was very well-staffed and a number of people circled by our table, serving food, filling waters and removing plates. Though relatively new at the job, our server knew the menu well and was able to offer suggestions throughout the meal. A compliment about the dessert prompted an appearance from the pastry chef, who showed us a bag of the gluten-free flour she had used to make the galette. This level of attention is appreciated, especially when you’re paying these kinds of prices.

Like St. James Tearoom a mile to the east, Vernon’s Speakeasy is an experience as much as a meal. Yes, it’s expensive, but the service and atmosphere make for a memorable night out.