Teen and tween skin care - save our skins

Q: My 11-year-old daughter is asking me to take her to a cosmetics store to buy products for a skin care routine that she learned about on social media. Some of these products seem geared toward older skin and are quite expensive. How do I know what is healthy for her skin? Help!

You are not alone. Social media influencers’ posts of skin care routines are extremely popular. This combined with the increasing access of social media by the younger population has led to a huge increase in tweens and teens buying skin care products that may not be healthy or safe for their skin.

Teens and tweens are also posting videos of their own skin care routines that include multiple steps and often incorporate products that are quite pricey. They may have five to six products in their bedtime routine, with each product costing from $20 to $40+ per step. Many brands that are highlighted online have fun names combined with colorful and cute packaging that easily draw them in. Aside from the problems of cost of products and influence of our younger generation, many of these products being promoted may actually be harmful for young skin.

How do you know which types of products and ingredients to avoid for your daughter? Products that contain retinol, silicone, acids (including vitamin C, which is an acid), and oils should generally be avoided. Use of these products can lead to sun sensitivity and sunburns, skin irritation, acne, rashes, and long-term skin damage. Any products labeled as “anti-aging” should absolutely be avoided as they are completely unnecessary and may cause damage to her skin barrier. These products are for adults only. Additionally, facial scrubs are also popular but can be damaging to skin; these should be avoided, as well.

A healthy and safe skin care routine for kids, tweens, and young teens is very straightforward and consists of three steps: cleanse, moisturize, and apply sunscreen. First, cleanse skin twice daily with a gentle cleanser as this will remove dirt and impurities while not stripping the skin of its healthy barrier. In fact, unless her skin is oily, she can rinse her face with warm water in the morning instead of using a cleanser. Follow this with a fragrance-free moisturizer. For acne-prone skin, look for products labeled as “non-comedogenic” as these will not clog pores. If this is her bedtime routine, she is done! Finish off the morning routine with a facial sunscreen. I recommend a mineral sunscreen for kids (look for products containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide), but for more pigmented skin or if the products leave a white cast, a chemical sunscreen is okay. Facial sunscreens also come in non-comedogenic varieties, as well. If you have any questions or concerns about your child’s skin or skin care products, ask your pediatrician or dermatologist.

Another concerning piece to this social media trend is the actual impact social media itself has on our kids and teens. While this is a topic too large to be adequately addressed here, there are a couple of things that can be addressed right now. First, have a conversation with your daughter about what she is accessing and seeing on social media. Talk about the fact that influencers on social media are being paid or compensated to recommend the products they are highlighting. Second, consider implementing a media plan for the entire family that can create some structure and guidelines around media use. HealthyChildren.org has a great Family Media Plan that can be personalized and is available in English and Spanish.

As we are headed into May, which is National Skin Cancer Awareness Month, it is worth mentioning the importance of preventing skin cancer by protecting all skin from dangerous exposure and sunburns. If you are headed outdoors remember to generously apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen or higher every two hours, and after swimming or sweating; try to apply it 30 minutes before sun exposure to allow for full protection. There are products that can be applied directly to clothes to give them SPF protection, as well as clothing containing SPF. Try to avoid extensive sun exposure when UV rays are the strongest, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Remember, the clouds do not block the UV rays. Don’t forget a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses and look for shady places to spend time outdoors. Sunscreen is not recommended for children under six months of age, so avoiding direct sun exposure is best.

Have questions about your kids? Ask your pediatrician!