DINING REVIEW: Debajo Tapas a promising addition to local tapas scene

Springtime is a season of renewal, and renewal is an appropriate descriptor for the local tapas scene.

Just as restaurants like Little Madrid in Sawmill Market and The Cellar on Lomas Boulevard, along with El Meson and El Farol in Santa Fe, closed, new places launched.

Among the latest arrivals are Damacios in the historic Skinner Building Downtown, Triana in Nob Hill and Debajo Tapas in the old Cellar space on Lomas between Interstate 25 and Old Town. The latter has generated good word-of-mouth since it reopened under new management last summer, so I decided to check it out.

The restaurant is located on the north side of Lomas at 11th Street. The one-story stucco building with brick fringe is set behind a parking lot with about 15 spaces. Its entrance sits under an arched entryway and a circular metal sign that at night is lit from behind with a blood-red glow.

The mid-sized dining room is dressed in brick, tile and weathered wood. Shelves of Spanish wines rise behind the bar in the back, and a list of specials decorates a chalkboard near the entrance.

After making reservations online for a Saturday dinner for two, I arrived to a quiet scene, with a few parties scattered about. The new owner, Enrique Siqueiros, who worked the dining room with one other person, greeted us and offered us a choice between eating inside or on the patio on the east side of the building.

We chose the patio, as it was a pleasant evening, and were seated at a small wood-topped table with unforgiving metal chairs. Strings of lights hung above a small bar partially supported with wooden barrels. It’s a peaceful spot save for the occasional hot rod or motorcycle blazing past on Lomas. For a while, we were the only ones out there. Siqueiros told us he anticipates bringing flamenco to the patio for the warmer months.

The menu, set in an attractive cork cover, offered an impressive assortment of proteins and vegetables. The menu had a few differences from the online version. For instance, the $42 dry-aged rib-eye listed on the online menu was not on the dine-in menu. Instead, there was a grilled filet mignon.

The menu starts off with several dishes for the table, including two paellas — one with saffron rice ($52), the other with squid ink-stained rice ($62). There is one soup, one salad and more than 15 tapas ranging in price from $13 to $35 for the aforementioned filet. Tapas choices range from standbys like Croquetas ($16) and Patatas Bravas ($13) to more obscure dishes.

Fabada Espanola ($11), the lone soup on the menu, is a traditional Spanish dish made with white beans and chorizo. Served in a wide, shallow bowl, Debajo’s version was more stew than soup, with a few medallions of chorizo looking almost purple against the rust-red-colored broth. A piece of jamón serrano, a dry-cured ham with a nutty flavor, rose out of the middle like a sail. Hearty, smoky and peppery, the soup was filling and satisfying, if a touch underheated.

Gambas al Ajillo ($18), the classic tapas dish of garlic shrimp, was served in a ramekin on a black stone with a side of grilled bread. The five shrimp were plump, moist and snappy, and the garlic added some pungency.

Banderillas ($17), a tapa named for the colorful darts used in bullfighting, typically consist of vegetables and cheese on a skewer. Debajo’s version is made with white meat chicken threaded on two skewers and wrapped in jamón serrano. This was one of our favorites. The chicken was hot and moist, the ham cloak provided some salt and nuttiness, and the buttery manchego brandy sauce enlivened the chicken with a jolt of tang.

Esparragos ($15), grilled asparagus wrapped in jamón serrano, were served on a square white plate in two bundles crossed like an X. It’s a simple dish, with the ham imparting some smoke and salt and the white wine, butter and garlic sauce invigorating the crisp asparagus stalks.

One of the more unusual dishes on the menu is Aguacate Frito y Ceviche ($18), half an avocado breaded and fried and topped with shrimp ceviche. Under a thin, crisp coating, the avocado was flawless. The excellent ceviche made from chopped-up pieces of shrimp gave a charge of citrus to the mild-flavored avocado. It was challenging to balance it all on the salty, crispy tortilla strips.

Debajo repackages the tapas staple of Rabito de Toro ($16), or oxtail stew, inside triangles of puff pastry. The tender, savory shredded oxtail contrasted nicely in texture and flavor with the crisp flaky pastry and the sweet and sour balsamic glaze. Very good.

The drinks menu hosts a comprehensive selection of Spanish wines including several variations of tempranillo. Most of the bottles land in the $50 to $60 range, with glasses mostly under $20. Draft beers go for $9, bottles for $8.

Debajo’s version of Red Sangria ($15/$42) was served with ice in a stemless glass. Spicy and wine-forward, the deep purple drink was quite refreshing.

Kalimotxo ($14), the other specialty drink on the menu, is a mix of tempranillo red wine and Coca-Cola that hails from the Basque region of Spain. The soda mutes the tannins of the wine, while the wine tamps down the Coke’s sweetness to make for a mild, pleasant drink.

The four desserts on the menu cost $12 each and include classics like Flan and Basque Cheesecake. We tried the creme brulee-like Crema Catalana Espresso. Dressed in chocolate sauce, the caramelized sugar crust on top was a little on the thick side, but the custard underneath was silky and bursting with enough espresso flavor to make it a good meal closer.

Service was brisk and friendly, and the food came out as it was ready. Siqueiros and the other staffer pitched in to clear plates from the small table in a timely manner.

Though not marked on the menu, there are numerous gluten-friendly options. Siqueiros was well-versed in gluten-free dining and able to make astute recommendations.

Debajo Tapas is an atmospheric spot to enjoy dishes both unique and familiar. It’s a promising addition to the local tapas scene.